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December 2004

Open Season

Hunt down an early winter ski bargain

It’s snow time! This month, having waved the last of the hikers goodbye, resorts throughout the Alps are gearing up for the winter white wash—the opening of the ski season. Unless you’re hopelessly impatient to get out on the slopes, you may be tempted to avoid early season weeks for fear of a lack of snow. However, opening weekends can prove to be a prime time to hit the slopes, for both experienced and inexperienced skiers. Not only are weather conditions often surprisingly favorable, but you can also enjoy a whole package of party events, not to mention some amazing offers—perfect either for those who want to try skiing, but who don’t want to fork out full price, or for those who have always fancied indulging a bit after a hard day on the piste, but have never been able to afford accommodation at some of the top alpine hotels.

Take the design hotel Madlein, in the hip Austrian resort of Ischgl (www.ischglmadlein.com ). With a branch of the oh so trendy club Pacha in its basement, not to mention a cocktail bar with pole dancers (free entry for ladies!) and a spa, complete with zen garden and beauty parlor, this is not your average alpine guesthouse! And though rooms can cost up to € 460 in high season, visit in the opening weeks, and you’re looking at far more purse-friendly sums of as little as € 220, including half-board for two people. What’s more, as a guest at the hotel, you can also take advantage of the VIP lift pass, giving you a reduction on the normal rates. Or book the winter package at the Hotel Belmonte, which is available until December 24 for € 437.50 per person, including a six-day ski pass, breakfast buffet, use of the sauna and a post-ski snack between 4 pm and 6 pm. As for the chance of getting some decent snow, Ischgl is renowned for its gloriously long five-month season, thanks to its high altitude of 1,337 m. Its Silvretta Ski Arena not only links Austria and Switzerland but boasts 230 km of slopes with a virtually perfect carpet of snow suitable for beginners and advanced skiers. Ischgl has also become a mecca for snowboarders. In 1993 the first official World Snowboarding Championships were held there, followed by the World Series in 1997. The perfect pistes, stunning rock formations and the Fun Park “Boarders Paradise” with its permanent half pipe make it a great location for any keen boarder. There is also cross-country skiing, tobogganing and horse-sledding available. Visit the resort on the weekend of December 4 and 5, and you can also join in the Sport Scheck-sponsored winter opening event, with a number of sports and entertainment promotions.
Ischgl tourist office: Tel. 0043 54 44 52 66, www.ischgl.com
Distance from Munich: 194 km, approx. 3 hours by car

For a weekend of on- and off-piste partying, check out Zell am See, Austria, between December 3 and 5, when the Intersport Snow Festival marks the official opening of the winter season. As well as the chance to try out the latest equipment, the resort has organized a packed weekend program of music and entertainment, coupled with some all-inclusive ski and accommodation offers. Prices range from just € 129 for two nights’ self-catering accommodation, including a two-day ski pass, to € 271 per person for three nights’ half-board accommodation in a four-star hotel and a three-day ski pass. The offer is available at various hotels—for full details contact the local tourist board.
Zell am See tourist office: Tel. 0043 65 42 77 00
www.zellamsee-kaprun.at
Distance from Munich: 168 km, approx. 2 1/2 hours by car

Piste posers shouldn’t miss the opening weekend at the Ski Circus in Saalbach-Hinterglemm, Austria, where it’s not only the latest equipment that is on show. On Saturday December 4 the resort is hosting a fashion show of the newest skiwear trends, so shed those Tchibo jackets from ten years ago and slip in to something more groovy, baby. Packages, which include two nights’ accommodation, a two-day ski pass, entry to the carving and snowboard test center, a welcome party, admission to an open-air concert, firework display and snow disco, range from € 127.50 per person in a self-catering apartment to € 185.50 in a four-star hotel.

A week later the resort will host its “Rave on Snow” party, which has now achieved cult status among hip young things. Prices for two nights’ accommodation, plus a member’s pass, giving admission to all party locations, range from € 91 to € 193, again depending on the accommodation.

If you’re thinking of treating yourself to a new pair of skis this year, it may be worth taking advantage of another offer in Saalbach-Hinterglemm, which includes five or seven nights’ accommodation, a five- or seven-day ski pass and a pair of carving skis, including bindings (four different models are on offer). The package is valid only between December 3 and 19 and ranges from € 399 to € 799, depending on accommodation and length of stay.
Saalbach-Hinterglemm tourist office:
Tel. 0043 65 41 68 00 68,
www.saalbach.com
Distance from Munich: 178 km, approx. 2 1/2 hours by car

Those who have left their party days behind, but who aren’t quite ready to wave goodbye to the body beautiful, should try Lech am Arlberg, which is running a special fitness package to mark its seasonal opening. Developed by ski schools at Lech and Oberlech, the Fit for Winter program aims to get all levels of skier back in form for the winter season. As well as taking advantage of special training with the schools’ experts, you can leave your own equipment at home and try out the season’s newest models, be they skis, boards, fun carvers or carvellinos. The program runs from December 4 to 18 and costs € 427 for adults and € 307 for children, which includes lessons, a six-day Arlberg ski pass and six days’ ski and pole hire. Bookings can be made either via hotels, or at the Lech tourist office. Off the slopes join in the opening celebrations at a “Sound of the Mountains” concert on December 4, featuring highlights from famous musicals, accompanied by a multimedia light show. On December 19 the resort holds its annual ski extravaganza, the traditional torch run. As for where to stay, take advantage of the Arlberger Wedel Weeks from December 4 to 23, an offer that includes seven nights in the accommodation of your choice, be it a farm or a five-star hotel, and a six-day ski pass. Prices vary, according to accommodation. Lech’s high altitude, at between 1,450 and 2,800 m, has ensured a good snow record, and despite its reputation as a world-class resort, the village has never lost its homey character. This year, in fact, it was named the most beautiful village in Europe, 2004, in the international Town and Villages in Bloom competition.
Lech tourist office: Tel. 0043 558 32 16 10, www.lech-zuers.at
Distance from Munich: 198 km, approx. 2 hours by car

If you’re after a family break, how about Ellmau, at the foot of the Wilder Kaiser mountain in Austria? Easily accessible, with a particularly child-friendly atmosphere, including nursery slopes in the center of the village, and a great snow record, this is a perfect choice for those with young kids. Indeed the resort also offers a selection of special offers for children. For example, those aged seven or younger ski for free, with those born between 1987 and 1996 receiving reduced rates. For young beginners the Friedl Fuchs ski school provides taster sessions for under fives for € 16 an hour, and under 14s can take advantage of a six-day lesson package (24 hours in total), including lunch for € 148. When it comes to accommodation the resort’s Winter Magic package is the best bet for families. This costs just € 710 for two adults and two children and includes seven nights in a holiday home, a horse-drawn sleigh ride, a guided torch-lit hike, a toboggan evening with a liter of mulled wine and ski passes. The offer is available between December 18 and 26.
Ellmau tourist office: Tel. 0043 53 58 23 01, www.ellmau.at
Distance from Munich: 111 km, approx. 1 1/2 hours by car

Switzerland is a notoriously expensive choice for holidaymakers, but there are some unbeatable offers available to mark the beginning of the season in Grindelwald this year. On the opening weekend of December 10–12 skiers can take advantage of the Eiger, Mönch and Mini Break offer, which includes two nights’ accommodation and a two-day ski pass for between € 81 and € 171 per person. For an additional SFr 180 (approximately € 115) an extra package is available, including two four-hour skiing lessons in groups of three to five people, a welcome aperitif and transport from your accommodation. There is also the option of taking a crash course in a winter sport with which you’re not familiar, be it telemarking, cross-country skiing or snowboarding. Again, the offer is available at most hotels in the resort.
Grindelwald tourist office: Tel. 0041 33 854 12 12, www.grindelwald.com
Distance from Munich: 454 km, approx. 4 1/2 hours by car

If your pre-Christmas schedule is tight, some resorts do have regular events and offers in the post-Christmas lull. In Montafon, Austria, for example, the tourist office will run a special “Five days for the price of seven” package from January 15 to 22, with two days’ worth of savings on accommodation and ski passes. See www.montafon.at for more details. Others to check out include the World Snow Festival in Grindelwald, Switzerland, from January 17 to 22, with many hotels offering seven nights for the price of five on accommodation and ski-pass packages.

And, finally, a word of warning! As a rule ski-resort hotel staff are employed on a seasonal basis, and many have little previous experience. For the majority the opening weekend is the equivalent of a dress rehearsal before the show really gets going and service can be somewhat under par. Saying that, however, don’t forget you’re getting bargain-basement prices and the chance to ski on some fresh, pre-Christmas snow. Enjoy!

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